I had been told Cinque Terre was 'too touristy' by at least four people before I went. They were wrong, or at least they had gone in August. I arrived on a drizzly Tuesday in late September and found something genuinely magical: five villages stitched together by a coastal trail, each one tumbling down a cliff face in shades of terracotta, lemon yellow, and faded coral.
The Trail Between the Villages
The classic 'Sentiero Azzurro' (Blue Trail) links all five villages — Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore — and sections of it reopen and close depending on the season. I walked the full route over two days, stopping at every viewpoint to set up my small watercolour kit. The light on the sea changes every twenty minutes here; I went through an entire sketchbook.
Where I Stayed: Manarola
I based myself in Manarola, which I think is the most painterly of the five. My room was in a small family-run locanda perched on the main stepped lane. The host, a woman in her sixties who introduced herself simply as 'La Signora', brought a tray of focaccia and local white wine each evening without being asked. The room itself was modest — white walls, a ceiling fan, a window overlooking the harbour — but the view at sunset was worth three times the price.
Where I Ate (and Ate Some More)
Ligurian food deserves its own post, but the short version: eat pesto on everything, order anchovies wherever you see them, and never skip the farinata (a chickpea flatbread cooked in a wood-fired oven). My highlights:
- Trattoria dal Billy, Manarola — tucked up a steep alley, no sign, cash only. The trofie al pesto was the best I've had anywhere in Liguria. Book ahead, always full.
- Ristorante Gambero Rosso, Vernazza — terrace right on the tiny harbour square. Grilled branzino, good local Vermentino, and the most reliable Wi-Fi in the region if you need it.
- Focacceria, Monterosso — a hole-in-the-wall I found on my last morning. Focaccia di Recco filled with fresh crescenza cheese, eaten standing on the pavement. Honestly a top-five meal of the trip.
Painting the Ligurian Light
I completed four watercolours during the week: Manarola from the eastern viewpoint at golden hour, Vernazza harbour from the castle steps, the switchback path between Corniglia and Manarola, and a small study of anchovy boats pulled up on Monterosso beach. Three of these are now available in the shop — the harbour view sold before I even got home.
Practical Tips
- Timing: Late September or October for fewer crowds and cooler walking temperatures. July and August are genuinely overwhelming.
- Cinque Terre Card: Covers the trail access fee and unlimited train rides between villages. Worth it for a multi-day stay.
- Base village: Manarola or Vernazza for atmosphere; Monterosso if you want a beach and more accommodation options.
- Cash: Many small restaurants and shops are still cash only. Bring enough from the ATM in La Spezia before you arrive.
'Come back in winter,' La Signora told me on my last morning. 'We are quieter, the light is softer, and the anchovies are better.' I already have a train ticket booked.